The Mouth has had a soon four decade long love affair with the city of Mumbai. Overlooked by most tourists as a stop-over between their origin and the beaches of Goa, there is a whole lot to love about this coastal behemoth. Apart from the usual tourist sites to occupy a person on a long weekend, for anyone even remotely interested in food, you cannot beat the diversity and options here. From street stalls selling kebabs that will murder your stomach but satisfy your palate, to vegetarian thali's that could hyptnotize the staunchest critic, to delicately spiced fish curries, fluffy biryani's and ancient farsi breakfast nooks, there is something to love in Mumbai for everyone.
Yes, the traffic is relentless. Yes, the noise is punishing. Yes, the hassle is annoying- however, if you stay a little outside the main backpacker area of Colaba, and stick to Ubers, you'll have a much easier time navigating the multiple neighborhoods of Bombay.
Explained in further detail in this guide are the places we end up going back to time and time again. Not only for the amazing food, but also the consistency in which it's prepared. The dishes taste the same now as they did a decade ago, and that is testament to a well-run establishment.
For a full link of all the places on google maps, click the icon below:
Words fail to describe how amazing this place is. Whatever your opinions on vegans and vegetarians, throw them out the window and jump in a cab immediately. Arrive early if you don't want to get stuck in a huge line (Weekends are murder), pay at the counter, take a seat and wait for the greatest magic show on earth to commence. Waiters will begin to paint your silver tray with myriads of colours and textures for you to try, explaining what goes best with what, where to dip your roti, which pickle works best with that lentil. There is no use in telling them you are full, you stop eating when they decide you have had enough, and every flavour is a love affair to history, tradition and vegetable worship.
If you go to Mumbai and do not come here, then there is no hope for you.
Another local favourite where you're going to have to wait unless you managed to get reservations, this restaurant serves the freshest seafood in town.
Another victory for vegetarians, this chain has impeccable Gujurathi snacks of all shapes and sizes. Ask the waiter for the daily specials, but do not miss out on the Panki Chatni.
With a few branches scattered around Mumbai, this is one of your best bets if you want to try locally sourced, Indian coffee, prepared well.
Possibly the most beautiful restaurant in the world if you like peeling paint and echo's of lost time. Their food is a wonderful glimpse into a different world. A true gem of the local culinary scene in Mumbai, and a starting point for anyone visiting the few Parsi restaurants dotted around town.
For those nights where price is not a consideration, head to Kala Ghoda, and to Trishna (one block behind this cafe). This phenomenal seafood restaurant has been serving their award winning Garlic-Crab to happy punters, consistently.
You make the trek up here for the famous biryani. Succulent, tender rice topped with chicken and served with a side of raita. A must-do if you're spending more than a weekend in town.
p.s. For those who preferred this spot before they started adding potato to the Biryani, there is no saving you.
The risk/reward of eating at some of Mumbai's more local establishments adds an extra element of chance to the equation. We suggest eating this intensely great Pav Bhaji with meat a few days before any International flights, as you don't want to get caught short in the middle-seat during a 15 hour flight.
Another favourite for seafood in Mumbai, slightly more expensive than Jai Hind but the quality shines through.
You come here for the breakfast egg dishes. Simple, homecooked food in a fabulously decrepid haunt.
Appearances can be deceptive at Kala Ghoda Cafe. Wander in off the street and you'd think it's just a tiny cafe, but keep walking and you'll find hallways and doorways opening to indoor Air Conditioned sections and even a small speakeasy Wine Bar. A tranquil place to sip some coffee.
One of, if not, the oldest Punjabi restaurants in Mumbai, you come here for the banjara kebab, tarka dal and romali roti. The perfect lunch. It's not a "must-do" on the Mumbai circuit, but one for people who care about history & tradition and want a textbook example of North Indian cooking.
Beware of the restaurant opposite which is the same name but serves more as a loud beer hall for drunk locals. The one with the guard outside dressed in traditional garb is where you want to dine.
Whilst the tourist flock to Leopolds, the locals come to "Mondys". Pull up a chair in the tight dining room, have a cold drink and quick chat with your neighbor.
If you're staying in Ballard Estate, then this is your bet for a morning coffee to shake life into your weary bones.
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