Madrid. The throneroom of Almodovar, the playground of Bunuel, the hometown of the Galacticos, no city in Europe is quite like this place. A subdued capital prefering expansive streets and a slower tempo than the far more popular crowded rabbits warren of Barcelona. Though we also love the Catalan cousin, our heart is firmly stapled to the streets of Madrid.

As guiding anyone though a city of this immense size and variety would take a lifetime, this guide shall concentrate only on the tiny hamlet of Lavapies. This small part of town is one of our favourites if we have a couple of days to spare in Madrid.

Not too crazy, lots of hills, and lots of great food.