Navigating the full-frontal assault that is Saigon takes patience and a stiff backbone. To a newbie it can be a frightening experience, like being thrown into a pit of hissing vipers. However, after a day or two of adjustments, the city begins to show it's riches. Hidden behind the barrage of motorbikes steering to infinity, are thousands of small alleyways that cook wonderful broths and crispy sandwiches, visited by a loyal local clientele.
For a city with almost 9 million inhabitants, you can bet your bottom Dong that nobody has done enough research in finding all the hidden gems. The Mouth, however, has been visiting the mighty serpent for over 15 years, and spent countless hours eating mediocre banh mi or bowls of Pho to cut through the rubbish and present you with what we consider the best.
For a full link of all the places on google maps, click the icon below:
Tho they have two branches in Saigon, the one linked on our map is the furthest from District 1, and definitely the better of the two. If you only have time to visit the more central one, you'll still get a killer bowl of Pho, but the 20 minute taxi ride will amp up the rewards a tad more.
The pork Banh Mi served here are legendary. Crowds line up from 4pm onwards waiting for the grill to start sizzling and the fat pork patties to be embraced in crispy rolls stuffed with cucumber, herbs and chilli.
Propelled into the spotlight by the sadly deceased ambassador of booze and banquets, Anthony Bourdain, this small outdoor shack is an interesting detour from the bowels of Saigon. With only one dish cooked per day, you are at the mercy of the chef, but her recipes are well regarded and chances are you'll leave satisfied.
Despite its proximity to the battering-ram hell of Bui Vien, this family run Pho-behemoth has been selling spectacular bowls of soup for decades. Our only gripe is that since it's a 24 hour operation, you might catch the broth at a change-over when it's slightly more watery. Give it a go and see!
Take the elevator to the top floor and spend the afternoon walking each level until you reach the street again. Tucked in corners and hallways are a wide array of cafes, stores and artistic spots to waste your time.
If you're serious about your coffee in Saigon, then this is the place to come. Round the corner is a pretty decent Banh Mi at Bay Ho, so you can kill two birds with one scooter.
Locals argue over which place does the best pork chop, but for the sheer size of this monstrosity, it has to be in the debate. As with many Vietnamese dishes, it eats on the sweet side, but the flavours are legit.
Perhaps the best people-watching bar in Ho Chi Minh, if you grab a stool in the backroom you have free reign over the comings and goings of this particularly cheeky neighborhood.
Sometimes you want something safe and satisfying that doesn't run the risk of food poisoning or mystery meat, then Den Long is your best bet. The food here is hygienic, flavourful and kind on your wallet.
Tip: The Mackrel Salad with Mango is a standout!
Vintage clothing horders of the world unite!
Situated at the end of a tiny alley in the slightly perverse "Japan-Town", this noodle shop sells blisteringly good Shoyu Ramen with solid noodles and addictive broth.
Cafe Marcel serves up Saigon's tastiest burger. It ain't cheap, but it's bloody delicious. Oh, and their fries are fire too...
The best coffee in Le Thanh Ton area.
It is rare to find Indian food of this caliber outside of the motherland, but they really know what they're doing here. By far the best Indian food in Saigon.
You have to risk your life to stand waiting for your Banh Mi from this roadside stall, but the pork belly is crispy and luxurious and the chilli sauce is downright delicious.
If Hanoi is not in your plans and you sit at home shivering at the thought of missing out on streetside Pho, then here is your chance. The Pho is not amazing, but it's good enough, and plonking your tired frame down on a miniscule plastic stool and seeing the smiling owner is enough to make the trip.
Pizza is pizza, but 4P's do a damn fine Neopolitan style. Lucky for us they have branches all over town, and even up in Hanoi.
The quality of ramen in Saigon is so high we could easily have included 3 other spots in this list, but we made a "Best Ramen" post for a reason. Chikura serves heavy, decadent, delicious ramen but be prepared to cancel any plans for the afternoon and head back for a ten hour nap.
When a bar is tricky to find, you tend to not get gatecrashed by tossers on a pissup. We like our bars on rooftops and hard to get to.
Deftly prepared bowls of fresh Poke give you a needed alternative to the daily grind of lemongrass and fish sauce. Choose the branch at the Cafe Apartments so you can spend the afternoon exploring the upper floors.
Though Syrian food is perhaps not something you're expecting in Saigon, Al Sham do a very good job. Slightly pricy, but ever-so fresh and flavoursome.
For those who dare not leave District 1, then plonk your tired feet down in this popular tourist restaurant where at least the flavours are great and the hygiene is above average!
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