TURNING TRICKS

Home to the dizzying grandeur of the Palentine Chapel, Palermo hits in a different way to Catania. More of a Madrid to Catania's Barcelona, wider avenues and more of a placated ambiance, this city holds some true culinary gold.

The best way to attack it is to just bring your best walking shoes and get lost. Mark a few places you want to graze at and casually stare at Google Maps every half hour or so to see if you're close to anything interesting.

Arancini is a must. The locals here die over offal sandwiches, we don't, but you do you. Coffee and sweets is high on the agenda as it is in every Italian city. But most of all, just idle away your time in the wonderful side streets of Ballaro and head to the beaches in Mondello, or visit the church in Monreale for a stupendous view over the whole area.

Just promise to eat at a few of the places mentioned below, they were handpicked by ravenous locals who pace these streets daily and only have your best interests at heart.

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AL FERRO DI CAVALLO

Local spot for pasta "Alla Norma", and a host of other dishes. Outdoor tables are very popular when the sun is shining, so come early if you want to snag one.

NNI FRANCO U VASTIDDARU

The chickpea fritter & eggplant sandwiches here are boss! And if you're in a hurry, just grab one from the takeout window.

TRATTORIA AI CASCINARI

Your no-nonsense stop for local dishes, seafood and pasta. Cosy and uncomplicated.

VINILE BAR

Palermo's underground queen. This fantastic vinyl bar has outdoor seating, a vinyl player and tons of records, and super cool owners. A hidden pearl in an area tourists don't frequent (thankfully).

KE PALLE

They may not be the absolute best in town, but the location and quality & consistency make them a "must-do" on your Palermo itinerary. The ragu one's are top.

CIMITERO DEI CAPPUCCINI

We like our cemeteries ornate and lonely.

BISSO BISTROT

The Mouth generally doesn't recommend places on the main tourist thoroughfares, but repeat visits to Bisso Bistrot have never thrown up a single complaint. It's also perfect for people watching.

PALANTINE CHAPEL

Sticking with the tourists for a second, this chapel is absolutely un-missable! Hit it in the morning and hop the nearby local bus up to Monreale to walk the cathedral up there and take in the views.

LUCCHESE ANGELA

A divine old school bakery for all your biscuits, sweets and cakes. The vibes are unmistakably non-hipster to the greatest degree.

FRIGGITORIA CHILUZZO

When you see the fisherman and taxi-drivers lining up for sandwiches you know you're at the right spot.

ELVY'S NEOPOLITAN PIZZA

The best pizza we ate in Palermo, but we didn't hunt too hard as we were fixated on arancini and seafood pasta. Take it as you may.