THE COST OF LIVING

CIYA SOFRASI

No visit to Istanbul would be complete without a visit to Musa Dağdeviren's restaurant in Kadikoy. A temple to disappearing recipes from the region, he religiously recreates forgotten recipes in this ever-expanding temple of pleasures. Our suggestion is to go to the counter where the pots are all on display, ask the chef for some recommendations, grab a few cold mezze from the counter behind and settle in for an unforgettable meal.

He has a Ciya Kebab shop opposite, but if you want kebabs then they are good, but there are better places in town. You come here for Sofrasi. Full stop!

ADANA OCAKBASI

Home of bewildering grilled meats, this tiny shop in Nisantasi is legendary for a reason. Their spicy adana is melt-in-your-mouth tender, whilst keeping all it's delicious juices.

A classic for very good reason.

ENGIN USTA

The battle of the döner is a fierce one. Every local has their one taste that reminds them of their youth, so no two Istanbulers will ever agree. Some claim Karadeniz the best, some Tatar Salim, and others still swear by this small shop near SALT. For our tastes, this has some deep lamb funk mixed in with beef, onions and speckles of tomato. The locals flock here for a reason, the meat is intensely flavoursome and hits the spot.

It might not be to everyones palette, but if you can handle lamby-funk, then hit this up.

CAKMAK KAHVALTI SALONU

Pull up a chair, order the kaymak with wild honey, some small plates of olives and other oddities, and treat yourself to an experience you'll never forget. DO NOT miss the kaymak.

MURAT THE FISHERMAN

The tourists crowd outside Balik Mehmet Usta, but the locals come here for a cheaper (and tastier) fish sandwich. Just beware of the seagulls, sit under the awning. If push comes to shove there is little seperating the two, but The Mouth prefers dining away from influencer tourists and therefore we're hitting Murat any day of the week.

#THEMOUTHSCHOICE

PAK PIDE

Not known for wandering the streets of Eminonu too often, however if you are heading that way then this local gem is incomparable for their delicious Pide. The two owner/chefs are smiling beacons of welcomeness, and the food is sensational. By far the best Pide you'll find anywhere near downtown areas in Istanbul. Worth seeking out.

Thanks to Maksut Askar for the tip!

PETRA TOPAGACI

Turkish coffee you'll find on every square inch of Istanbul, but properly prepared espresso using single origin beans or natural process / washed options can be tricky. This cute little shop in the trendy area of Nisantasi takes care of your needs, and provides a mellow soundtrack to read a book in.

They have another few branches, the one in Bebek is situated in a big old house and is feverishly popular.

BURAK KURUFASULYE

Parked squarely in the suburb of Pendik, this local favourite offers amazing versions of Turkish classics. Their beans are a popular option, but everything including the soups (Gerdan çorbası) are exceptional.

HALIL LAHMACUN

Our vote for the best lahmacun in town, and we tried a lot. Order, sprinkle with fresh parsley and sumac, squeeze some lemon juice on, roll it like a cigar and eat like a vandal.

NATO LOKANTASI

Local chefs eat at Nato on their day off. If you need any more encouragement than that, you're a lost cause. This wildly popular lokantasi serves delicious food and is so full at lunchtimes you'll be forced to share tables with strangers. Everything is good, but go have a peek at the counter and choose what catches your eye.

BADEM

Not strictly a vegetarian/vegan eatery, this popular neighborhood restaurant does excellent meat-free food if you get sick of chomping on kebabs. They have a tiny dining room upstairs with 2 tables, but predominantly seem to cater to locals popping in for a take-away lunch.

DURUMCU EMMI

Few places in Istanbul do an Adana Kebab plate like Emmi. Succulent meat, bulgar, blistered tomato and herbs & onions. The outdoor seating area provides an airy place to shed some tears.

BALAT TURSUCUSU

This bonafide legend will fill up a cup (or bag) of your favourite pickles, top it up with vinegar, a spicy dressing and a plastic fork for you to enjoy munching around Balat. 100% worth popping in for some excellent, excellent pickled goods.

TARIHI KALKANOGLU PILAVCISI

When the pangs of home cooked food come haunting your soul, pull up a lonesome table and order a plate of pilav rice, beans and stewed beef. The portions are huge, the food is comforting, and the butter will bring the smile back to your face.

STEREOGUN

Indie kids unite at this second floor bar (with rooftop area) that belts out Stereolab, Slowdive and My Bloody Valentine to accompany your beverages.

The best bar in town!

TATAR SALIM

Doner meat of the highest order is offered at this corner restaurant a hairs breadth from Ciya Sofrasi. If you're not prepared to venture all the way to Besiktas to eat at Karadeniz, or Beyoglu for Engin Usta, then this is your next best option.

MUJGAN YELDEGIRMENI

Breakfasts don't come bigger, or better in Istanbul. Grab one of the outside tables, show them this photo, and sit back and unbuckle your pants. Cancel plans for the rest of the day unless you intend to test hammocks and couches.

KOFTECI ALI BABA

A favourite of Vogue Turkey editor Cemre Torun, this corner restaurant in Arnavutkoy, serves old school kofte and salads to a fiercely loyal crowd.

TATBAK

Yet another legendary spot with a crispier than glass lahmacun, Tatbak has been putting smiles on local faces for decades. The prices are incredibly reasonable, the service is top, and the food is smashing. Their red lentil soup is one of the towns best!

BARIS MANCO MUSEUM

The home of the Turkish rock legend has been turned into a museum, and despite some awfully questionable elements, its highly worth an afternoon noseying around.

Moda, where the house is located, is a great area to amble around.

YANYALI

A lokantasi that specialises in Greek-Turkish food, perfect for a lunch before walking over to Moda. Their version of moussaka is excellent, as are most of the dishes on offer.

BUTME EVI

Gozleme rolled in front of you, and apart from the spectacle, they are some of the best in town.

VEGAN DUKKAN LOKANTA

Vegan options are slim if you venture out of Moda, but this 5 table restaurant offers tasty vegan fare, kombucha, homemade sugarless lemonade and mouthwatering desserts just a few blocks from Istiklal.

BASTA! STREET FOOD BAR

If you are curious about the state of elevated street food in Istanbul (though we hate that word), then grab a durum from Basta. The quality of the ingredients make up for the slightly higher price-point, and the flavours are all on point.

CORBA EVI

Despite being on one of the most hellish tourist streets in Istanbul, 99% of tourists seem to walk past this place out of fear of dark spaces. Inside is a treasure trove of delicious soups, and a bunch of outdoor seating to sip your soup and try to avoid eye-contact with the passing throngs.

POPSTEL BALAT

Sitting by one of the tables on the rooftop and viewing the sights is one of lifes simple pleasures. They have a sister cafe about 300 meters away which is cosier if you're into tiles and old couches.

The service can be painstakingly slow, but the views more than buffer the aggravation.

KARGA

Karga would be the next choice after Stereogun of the best bars in Kadikoy.

SAYLA MANTI

Manti are the Turkish equivalent of small ravioli. Sayla is one of the places locals flock to in Kadikoy when presented with cravings that are impossible to shift. This is a walk on the wild side, locally speaking, as the flavours can be a bit challenging for tourists. However, if you really are intent on understanding Turkish food, then you almost have to come here and see what all the fuss is about.

BANKO BURGER

Hipsters love a good burger, and Banko does the best in town. They have a few branches now, one in Moda and one with a large outdoor seating area in Nisantasi.

DURUMCU RAIF USTA

There are a dime a dozen durum spots in Istanbul, but over on the European side this is definitely one of the best in our opinion. Always packed with locals, whilst all the tourists buy crap doner on the streets nearby. Life is for those who hunt a bit harder!

COFFEE DEPARTMENT

A chain offering good cups of coffee if you're in a pinch, this branch is our favourite since it's a bit out of the way, has a quiet interior and a patio to sit on if the sun is bright. Basically there is less chance to sit next to throngs of tourists at this one as opposed to their Balat branch.

VINYL BASEMENT

Downstairs in the basement is a hallway full of vinyl shops to tempt the most rabid collector to part with far too much cash.

KARABATAK

If you happen to be stuck down in Karakoy, avoiding swarms of tourists, pop into this tranquil and hip coffee shop for an ice-coffee in the alleyway seating, or inside if the sun is a tad brash. Friendly service, good prices and vibes conducive to afternoon chill are just what the doctor ordered.