FOOD GUIDE TO NAPOLI
CRUST OR BUST
Concentrating for a second amidst the din of scooter exhaust and gesticulating locals, one finds a strange serenity walking the narrow streets of Naples, meditating on where to extinguish the eternal hunger next. Tucked away in the labyrinth of dark stone buildings are hundreds of restaurants offering up flavours you've never experienced elsewhere. There is something about the volcanic soil. It creates produce of the highest quality. Dizzying sweetness, tartness, richness, acidity. A simple tomato tastes better than anything you've bitten into before. The herbs are boundlessly giving. Seafood fresh as the distance to the ocean.
As is the case in any city in Italy, the locals cannot decide on one thing. Ask ten Neopolitans about where to find the best pizza and you'll get ten distinctly different answers along with wild arguments as to "whoever mentioned that place is a moron". Half the fun of making this guide was interacting with locals at every opportunity, and always asking them for tips. When you stay somewhere for almost half a year, you become accustomed to its rhythms and block out the incessant barrage in a defense mechanism to survive.
The city is not welcoming to the frail of heart. It is a bold and brash city. It is rooted in struggle. The locals here are weather-worn and brow beaten, but extraordinarily true and kind. Staying for a little more than the usual tourist weekend, you will begin to get smiles from repeat encounters, and even be invited to dine with strangers. Napoli gives what it gets, and if you try not to smother them with fake enthusiasm, you'll find a soft centre that is completely missed in the frantic tourist trails of "Eat Pray Love" walks and altogether misguided intentions.
Read through this carefully curated guide, made with a broad spectrum of people in mind, there will undoubtably be something for everyone, and something that everyone hates. It's the nature of the beast, and strong opinions is something Naples is built on, so a reaction of any kind is a deep compliment.
p.s. If you only care about pizza, then check our "Top 10" guide to the city after trying almost 40 different spots here.
PIZZERIA DA ATTILIO
Ignore all the frenetic fools goading you to try Sorbillo or Da Michele, this is the only place you need to visit if you have one pizza in Naples. It is the epitome of perfection.
Read our guide to the 10 best pizza in Naples
here .
MUSEO HERMANN NITSCH
Fans of the macabre can get lost in this majestic museum to the late Austrian gore-monger. One of the absolute highlights of Naples if you fancy a walk on the wilder side of things.
Read our homage to the museum
here.
SPAZIO NEA
Piazza Bellini may be famous for cheap cocktails, but tucked away in the top right corner is this excellent cafe/bar to sip some strong coffee in the delightful sun.
ANTICA TRATTORIA DA CARMINE
No Reservations and a consistent line tells you all you need to know about this place. Though it may be located on one of the most irritating streets, it has been here long before tourists began marching, so the location is inconsequential. Tourist traps do not serve food like da Carmine.
Try their arancini starters, their melanzane di parmigiana, their spaghetti vongole, their local potato pasta, literally just choose anything from the menu and sit back and taste tradition.
BOP
When an old pop star starts a dumpling shop in Materdei with flavours like this, you'll ignore the calls for heresy recommending "Asian" food in Naples, and head up here yourself.
Prepare to be amazed.
PIZZERIA PELLONE
If we were to choose one pizzeria in Naples where you get the most bang for your buck, then Pellone it is. The pizza isn't the best in town, but its mighty damn close, and the atmosphere is unquestionably Naples. These pizza are also much larger than the regular ones you get in town, so you'll be duly rewarded for your detour if you head here.
ATTANASIO
Sfogliatelle are native to these parts, and you won't find locals eating them anywhere but here. Ask for the crispy ones with the million layers, and try wait to get outside the shop before tucking in.
LA FESSERIA
For the imbibers of the world, look no further. The best bar in town.
CIBI COTTI
The canteen that seems to peddle food to pensioners. The prices are delicious, the food is honest, the staff are delightful.
File under: If you want a true, true Naples experience.
IL GIARDINO DI BABUK
It doesn't get more "Hidden Gem" that Gennaro's garden in Rione Sanita. A temple dedicated to 20+ cats, named after the deceased "Babuk", this insane place is visited only by appointment, and a donation is accepted in exchange for one of his books. Gennaro speaks Italian, French, Spanish and passable English. The main highlight here is the long winding staircase down to the subterannean cave.
TANDEM
Slow cooked thick ragu with your choice of pasta, sure the tourists have discovered this place but it's popular for a reason. If you're in a hurry grab one of their take-away sandwiches which are basically hollowed out bread stuffed with rich meatballs and sauce.
UN SORRISO INTEGRALE AMICO BIO
Fret not vegetarian/vegan friends, this place has you covered.
VINTAGE BY SUN RA
Underground heros unite and spray your dollar bills all over this shop. Vintage heaven!
PRASSANA STAR
Sri Lankan food worthy of the highest praise, and at under 5 euro for a large plate of rice, vegetarian and meat curries, your wallet will be happy.
SANTA FEDE LIBERATA
Naples version of Christiania, this small punky-artsy-commune area hidden within the main tourist district holds demonstrations, concerts, smoking parties, markets and all things free and easy. Worth peeking in if you're in the area.
DE' FIGLIOLE
The Mouth's favourite "Pizza Fritta" in town. There is just something about them vibes in there too.
PALAZZO VENEZIA
Not so much of a secret anymore, but still a beautiful place to have a cup of coffee in the backyard garden when the sun is too hot. Walk up the narrow stairs to the right and head out back to find the huge huge shaded garden.
CONCETTINA AI TRE SANTI
The area of Rione Sanita is as local as it gets, and not surprisingly is home to the best pizzerias per square kilometer. Within a couple of blocks are at least 5 places that will happily exchange your euros for utter bliss. This family favourite is one of our top 3 pizzas in Naples. They have an outdoor area at the back too if the weather is comfortable.
POPPELLA
A rite of passage for anyone in Rione Sanita is to smash a couple "Fiocco di Neve" at Poppella after your pizza at Concettina. It's 100 meters away and those pastries will have you dizzy with love.
LA CANTINA DI VIA SAPIENZA
Grandmothers cooking super simple honest food? This is your spot. Don't expect any bells & whistles, this is excruciatingly simple.
CAPPELLA SANSEVERO
Yes, you just have to.
MEXICO
We like our coffee strong and served by an aging relic. You'll get both at any branch of Mexico.
CICCIOTTO DAL 1942
The wonderful little village of Marechiaro should not be missed if you have extra time. Lunch can be enjoyed at the slightly more expensive Cicciotto that boasts super fresh seafood and views to die for.
MIMI ALLA FERROVIA
True nostalgia-hunters look no further! Walking into Mimi alla Ferrovia is like stepping back into a Fellini film. The dishes are traditional, time-honoured and unfancy, but packed with love and flavour. The waiters are stoic and spotless.
SALUMERIA UPNEA
Modernistic approaches to local dishes, but not forgetting the flavour. Recommended if you have already eaten at a few super traditional old skool places.
GHI RICE
Napoli truly has you covered on all fronts. Just when you were surprised to find they have excellent Sri Lankan restaurants, Ghi Rice pops up and serves up an excellent Masala Dosa to cure the cravings.
VILLA FLORIDIANA
The award for the best view in Naples goes to this park. Head to where the google pin is dropped and walk behind the bushes on the path that stretches to the left. You'll mostly be left alone and the view is jaw-droppingly fantastic.
PESCHERIA AZZURRA
Weave your way through Quartieri Spagnoli holding a wrapper of fresh "Frutti di Mare" from this famous shop. If you're lucky they'll fry them to order so everything is spankingly crispy.
120 GRAMMI
A hole in the wall eternally popular with students tempting them with cheap prices and good portions, all things considered the pasta served here is better than 90% of "Italian" food served in the rest of Europe. Great emergency lunch on the go.
FANTASIA GELATI
Not located in areas tourist generally throng, this was the best gelato we ate in Naples. The old skool interiors only add to the appeal.
P.s. This is the better of the other locations.
MODERNISSIMO
Cinephiles unite! Not many cinemas in Italy show foreign movies in English, this one does.
VITTO PITAGORICO
Another vegan empire in Naples, albeit slightly more "upscale" than the place near Bellini. Expect thoughtful, well prepared vegan dishes where you honestly don't miss the sight of carcass for a second.
HERCULANEUM
Obviously Pompei is highly recommended viewing, but we figured most of you have heard of it. Herculaneum is also worthy of some afternoon musings if you happen to be near this area, and if you are here in the mornings then do not miss the excellent second hand stores along Via Pugliano.
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